1.  Winterize your irrigation system.

Winterizing your irrigation system prevents costly damage and repairs. A sprinkler winterization or “blowout” clears the irrigation lines of excess water before the ground freezes. By skipping this service, the pipes, sprinkler heads, valves and even the water meter is at risk for damage- causing major headaches down the road. The best time to get this service done is during the month of October or before the first frost.

2.  Burlap trees and vulnerable plants.

Newly planted trees and those at risk for heavy wind or sun exposure can be wrapped during the winter months. Burlap is the best barrier for arborvitae and evergreens, as it blocks the cold while allowing the trees to still breathe. Small shrubs, boxwoods and even perennials benefit from the extra protection. Any questions regarding the best method of protection for your plants should always be addressed to a tree specialist or landscape professional.

3.  Move patio furniture into storage.

Pavers, stone and any kind of hardscaping is susceptible to weathering from items left outside during the wintertime. For example, metal patio furniture can leave rust marks on your hardscaping that are very difficult to remove. Same for painted or stained decks, and wooden railings. In addition to your patio, keep in mind items left in the grass like hose boxes, flower pots or lawn furniture, as these items can cause divots and discoloring to your landscape.

4.  One last mow.

The last cut of the year is an important! In Michigan, this can be done typically in late October/early November, depending on the level of moisture in the soil. Cutting your grass during this time not only strengthens the individual blades of grass, but prevents long grass from becoming tangled, which can cause fungal outbreaks in the spring (snow mold).

5.  Fall cleanup services.

Clearing out gardening debris, dead plants, excessive leaves, and weeds, will help your garden look fresh next blooming season. Excess material in your garden beds harbor bacterial and mold growth, discoloring foliage and potentially killing plants entirely. To go the extra mile, try adding a new layer of mulch to the beds after cleanup to keep the soil warm and help your plants adjust to the change in temperature.

1.  Nepeta- A good choice for rock gardens or edging, Nepeta is drought-resistant and durable to pests like rabbit and deer. Also known as “Catmint” this flower blooms from early spring through summertime, requires little maintenance, and attracts pollinators of all kinds.

2.  Salvia- Known for its long bloom time during the summer months, Salvia is a dependable perennial. There are hundreds of varieties of Salvia, the most common to Michigan being “Woodland Sage” which produces violet blooms through September. Also, Salvia is a favorite snack for butterflies.

3.  Caesar’s Brother Iris- Irises do well around water features and are known for their tall foliage. Caesar’s Brother is known for dark purple blooms with light yellow and black veining on the inside of the flower. Blooms last for a few weeks in the early summer and their leaves remain a beautiful green color until first frost. 

4.  Penstemon- These purple beauties, also known as Beardtongue, bloom in early summer. There are over 250 varieties of Penstemon, growing anywhere in the range of a few inches to a few feet tall. Penstemon have small bell-shaped flowers that remain a vibrant purple color until high temperatures take over in mid-summer.

5.  Cone Flower- Otherwise known as Echinacea, cone flowers are part of the daisy family. They are extremely draught-tolerant, maintain their blooms for about 8 weeks during the summer months and can grow upwards of about 4 feet tall. The name "cone flower" comes from the characteristic "cone" at the center of the flower head, attracting pollinators of all kinds.

Disease

Most fungal diseases thrive in humid conditions. White fungus can be prominent, especially on plants that have dark foliage. Keep an eye out for a powdery mildew that develops on leaves. As the fungus progresses, you may notice discoloring of flowers and branches. This condition is generally mild and resolves on its own as the humidity subsides, but long stretches of moisture may cause a need for treatment. Try cutting back any dead branches or flowers to control the disease. The Ninebark species (see below) is especially prone to white fungus collecting on the tops of its leaves.

Damage

An excess of moisture can lead to unrepairable damage. For example, root rot occurs when insufficient drainage causes water to collect in the surrounding soil. As a result, roots are choked out and the plant will die. Make sure container plants and garden beds have sufficient drainage in place and all irrigation is timed accordingly.

Insects

Humidity can cause insect infestations in your garden. Open areas of water, even the smallest droplets on leaves and in pots are good breeding grounds for insects. Always do your research before applying any kind of pest repellant and make sure your plants are placed in an area where water will not pool.

Weed growth

Too much moisture can encourage weeds to pop up in your plant beds. A good weeding regimen will ensure your landscape has sufficient room to grow. Pulling the weeds not only helps the root system thrive, but also prevents invasive plants like crabgrass, dandelions, etc. from transferring seeds into the next growing season.

Here are a few seasonal plants that provide vibrant, bold-colored leaves during the fall and early winter months:

1.  Oakleaf Hydrangea - In the summer, the leaves of the oakleaf hydrangea are bright green and are accompanied by tiny white flowers. Unlike most hydrangeas, the leaves change to a vibrant red color in the fall. This plant requires very little maintenance, produces quite a bit of foliage and looks beautiful year-round.

2.  Coral Bells - During the fall months, this plant withstands heavy rain (and muddy soil) along with cold temperatures. Coral bells range in color and are often found in shades of dark purple, orange, caramel or peach. Try adding to a planter or add as edging along sidewalks or pavers.

3.  Ninebark (Physocarpus) - If you're a fan of warm tones, the ninebark shrub is for you. Once flowering season is over, the leaves remain lush and change to a deep orange or burgundy color. Ninebark is a staple shrub in Michigan and is extremely draught tolerant.

4.  Ornamental Cabbage - Cabbage leaves come in a variety of colors like deep or dark purple, vibrant pink and even white. If you are a fan of super bold colors, try adding cabbage as a showcase plant in the front of your landscape. Cabbage survives well into November and December and requires minimal maintenance.

Fall Cleanup

October is the best time to invest in fall cleanup services and thoroughly rid your landscape of leaves, debris and dead plants. In addition to raking leaves and disposing of the excess organic material in your yard, we also provide:

Removal of Annual Plants/Seasonal plantings- After the first frost, it's time to remove the annual plants that are no longer in bloom. This will make room for new annuals come springtime.

Trim perennials- perennials such as black-eyed susans, daisies and hostas can be cut back in preparation for next year. Most of the time, this means trimming them down to just a few inches above the ground. In spring, new green stems will protrude through the old foliage and the dead stems eventually can be cut back. 

Prepping for Winter

In the winter, trees and shrubs take the brunt of cold weather, frost, ice and heavy snow. It's also important to winterize your irrigation system before freezing temperatures hit.

Burlap bushes (boxwoods)- Wrapping your bushes in burlap consolidates heat and protects the root system from extreme frostbite. The same procedure can be done with delicate trees or large pines/spruce trees that may need protection.

Anti-wilt spray- Shrubs like boxwoods, evergreens or arborvitae may benefit from an anti-wilt spray. Safe for families and pets, this spray treatment helps the shrubs retain moisture in their leaves throughout the winter season, even when the temperature is below freezing. Preventing the “winter burn” or frostbite will reduce your fertilization costs.

Winterize your Irrigation System- Last but not least, always turn off your irrigation system in late fall/early winter. The professionals at D.A. Alexander & Company, Inc. utilize a winterization checklist, saving you money on costly repairs and unexpected damages next season. 

Sod is usually chosen by homeowners in a new build process as it is often a requirement of the homeowner's association. A clear advantage of sodding over seeding is the immediate aesthetic improvement of the property. In addition, the flexibility of being able to walk on and use the new turf areas within only a few weeks is desirable to most everyone.

Washout can be an issue with a new sod installation on a steep hill, although the sod can be staked to help prevent this. Depending on the quality of the existing soil in your yard, additional topsoil may not be necessary.  It is difficult, however, to keep sod alive in an area that does not get at least four hours of sunlight a day. So, if you want to install sod in a shady area, over-seeding with a shade-tolerant seed may be required to keep the area from thinning. Consistent watering is necessary with new sod. I would not recommend installing sod if you do not have an irrigation system or a lot of daily time to water until it becomes established. For the health of new sod, it will require 4-6 fertilization applications per year.

There are many instances where grass seed is the better option. For extremely large areas or very small areas, seeding works great. Also, there is a large selection of seed to choose from which helps in difficult areas. Seed works much better than sod for shady areas and is a much quicker process that requires less water and does not require an irrigation system. 

There are several things to consider before you install seed; the main one being its germination rate. To obtain a lush lawn, it may take several months and multiple seeding applications. Seed can easily wash away with heavy rains; therefore, it is recommended that an erosion blanket be applied in necessary locations and conditions. For the best results, topsoil should be installed before any seed application. 

In the end, there is not much of a price difference between seed and sod when you factor in the fertilization and topsoil requirements. The choice is up to you and what works best for your situation.   

A pollinator garden includes vibrant flowers that are often native to the area or part of the natural environment. These gardens provide a great source of nectar and pollen for butterflies, bees, hummingbirds and other beneficial insects. The flowers tend to be brightly-colored with a pleasant scent. Not only are pollinator gardens visually appealing, but these creatures will remember the scent and location of your garden and return regularly throughout the season. These gardens help our environment too by sustaining pollinator populations that work hard helping to produce over one-third of the foods we eat including fruits, vegetables, nuts and greens. 

Tips for attracting your pollinator guests:

If there are specific types of pollinators you are interested in drawing to your garden, think about their favorite types of nectar. Butterflies are attracted to plants such as common milkweed, butterfly weed, hollyhock, lilacs, marigold and petunias. Honey bees enjoy the nectar of sunflowers, coneflowers, lavender, black-eyed Susan and peony. Hummingbirds tend to go for phlox, cardinal flower, catmint, lily, snapdragon and zinnia.

Planting a healthy mix of these flower varieties will draw an abundance of pollinators to your outdoor living space. Another option – because natural and native flowers are always a great go-to for pollinators, just planting wildflower seed mix from your local garden center can provide a nice variety of flowers that will attract with their favorite foods.

Natural flower environments are a low-maintenance, beautiful way to spruce up your landscape and add interest. The pros at D.A. Alexander & Company are always happy to assist in your next outdoor project. For more information, please contact us.

Lavender nepeta - attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds

But all jokes aside, a question many homeowners have is, “What can I grow in all this shade?” 

Let's start first with the definition of shade. Now, before I break out my luminometer, (yes that is a real thing) when was the last time you looked at your back yard all day? As a kid in science class, we once went outside every hour and poked popsicle sticks in the ground under a large maple tree and tried to guess where the shadow would be the following hour. This helped us understand not only the movement of the sun, but also that the densest maple tree isn't shady all the time. 

Shade can be light, moderate, or dense. Like the names suggest, they are based on the amount of light that breaks through. For instance, Locust trees can have full sun on top and allow “dappled” light to filter to the grass below. Whereas, a forest canopy may completely shade out all light.

Apart from the typical shade plants we all know, there are a wide variety of shrubs, trees, and even evergreens that will withstand shade. A proper plan of action will include the time to measure and understand your space. D. A. Alexander has a team of professional landscape designers who will not only help you with this, but will help to seek a solution to make your shade garden livable and lively.

While online resources have an abundance of advice, each yard is different and only the experience of a trained professional with industry knowledge will be able to help you properly plan. So, rather than randomly purchasing another plant from your local big box store, make a plan to have the right plant in the right place.

You can choose a monochromatic color scheme – light pink, dark pink with fuchsia. Or you could choose a complimentary color scheme – deep purple with bright orange. The options and combinations are endless! It is important to consider sunlight and watering needs when choosing your annuals, so be sure to pay attention to those aspects of your space. Once you find the right plant with the right color and look, you will want to prepare the soil for planting. 

First, start prepping your planting space by removing any weeds or debris that has gathered over the winter. Next, add organic matter to your existing soil. You can buy pre-mixed bags of potting soil or you can mix in compost or a fertilizer with your existing soil. Once the soil is prepped, you can begin planting! 

Your plant spacing will depend on what type of plant you choose. Make sure to abide by the recommended spacing, as you do not want to overcrowd your plants. Leave them room to grow and they will fill in the space nicely. Make sure you give them ample water and I recommend fertilizing throughout the season to encourage growth and flowering. 

You can change them with every season, mix colors or styles and really define your space in a way that speaks true to who you are. We all know the season in Michigan is short, but the ‘wow factor' brought by summer annuals is well worth the planting process. So, grab a flat or hanging basket and add a spark of color to your landscape! If you are more of a ‘hands off' gardener, reach out and we would be happy to help with your annual plantings! 

   

   

There are many ways to reduce the number of rabbits in your landscape. Fencing or trapping does work, but these methods may not be right for an animal lover or the gardener trying to obtain a seamless look. Luckily, there is a natural way to coexist with the rabbit population, which includes using plant species that are not tasty to them (see list below). This will keep the fluff balls out of your garden without causing any harm to the aesthetic of your landscape or to the rabbits themselves.

Blog image source: 

Eastern cottontail - Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eastern_cottontail

Climbing hydrangea produces white flowers in the early to mid-summer that will fill your backyard with a subtle sweet scent. This vine provides great all-season interest with its bright yellow fall color and shaggy bark during the winter. 

Trumpet vine attracts many types of butterflies and hummingbirds and has striking bright orange “trumpet” shaped blooms. Just be careful with this one – it is an aggressive grower that can quickly become out of control if not maintained properly. 

Japanese wisteria has beautiful grape-like lavender colored blooms that create a weeping effect. Be sure to grow this vine on a very strong structure, since it is known to twist and destroy weak structures.

There are several different types of clematis that I would recommend. There are varieties that bloom in the spring and others that bloom in the fall. The spring bloomers tend to have large purple flowers that provides a great focal point for an outdoor living space. The fall bloomers have small white flowers that cover the vine and create the illusion of a snowfall in early September. Vines such as Mandevilla (Mandevilla sanderi) and Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea) are annuals in Michigan and are a great way to add height to planters with the addition of a trellis! Both of these vines have stunning blooms that will last all summer long! 

In summary, there are several vines to choose from when looking to enhance your landscape with a new vertical focal point and benefits ranging from attractive appearance to functional use. Vines are all-around great options to include in your landscape!

The Truth About Weed Barrier

Let's talk about installing mulch on top of a weed barrier. What happens to mulch every year? It eventually loses its color and breaks down into soil. After years of replenishing mulch, you create a beautiful soil layer on top of your weed barrier. The good news is you have created a great mulch base, high in organic matter. The bad news is, the decomposition of the mulch on top of the weed barrier has just created an optimal and excellent opportunity for weeds to grow. 

When the weeds start popping up and it's time to pull them, it is more difficult to pull them because the roots are often embedded in the fabric. Therefore, when you do pull them, the entire root is not removed, and the weeds grow back in quickly. So, while the weed barrier fabric seems like a good idea for weed prevention in your beds, it actually leads to more weeds.

A Great Alternative to Weed Barrier

Using a preemergent herbicide when you spread your fresh mulch is a great way to avoid weeds. As the season goes on, maintain the areas by hand pulling the visible weeds, or using a non-selective herbicide, or do a combination of both. This should be sufficient when trying to combat any weed problem. 

The Best Use for Weed Barrier

When it comes to decorative rock installation, a weed barrier is a necessity and it will give you much better results in controlling weeds. Obviously, rock is not going to break down like mulch, but be aware that rock can be more costly than mulch. When installing rock, I recommend a geo-textile fabric. This type of fabric is a stronger, more durable landscape fabric than typical weed barrier. If you are having rock installed by a contractor, make sure to request geo-textile fabric to give you the best results. 

Convenience is key in getting a knock-out look for many of us. We will gladly accept a less than ideal look if we can get a better than expected price. And, if you only have one place to make an impact in a planter, why not make it the best it can be?

When you think about a gorgeous planter or annual basket, you typically look for three factors: color, size, and price. Julie Bergmoser, of Four-Star Gardens, grows fabulous annuals for Proven Winners and claims that these three factors are what most people look for. 

Let's start with color - planters and the plants you put in them should be an expression of you. Inspiration can come from a memory or a thought, but when focusing on color, stay away from monochromatic schemes unless you have a massive space. Monochromatism can look boring and uninspired if it's in a small space. Likewise, when you have a small front entryway, focusing on very punchy colors can have a great impact.

Picking a size is easy, as long as you prepare with measurements in mind. Many garden centers will have a location where you can design your planters before purchasing. Most annuals should be twice as high as they are wide. This creates a wonderful canvassing effect and architectural height. That said, remember, it's your space and it is important to focus on what makes you happy. 

The price can be the hardest part of planters. I've seen winter planters crafted from leftover Christmas tree cuttings and foraged branches that look great, but I have also seen costly planters that fall flat. I suggest setting a budget and sticking to it. 

Setting up your planters:

Now that you have your planters, know what your budget is and you have thought about colors, use these installation guidelines:

Materials for 2 large planters approx. 24” tall by 12" wide:

1 bag of sand per planter

3 high-quality bags of planting mix (Note: Do not use bedding/topsoil/ect. as it is too heavy) 

1 bag Pea gravel

1 bag of sand

4 wood shims per pot

1 plastic 5 gal. pot (you can purchase these from most garden centers where you will likely be buying the material from)

1. The plug or drain hole is very important so that water is allowed to freely drain from this hole. 

2. Wood or plastic shims- these shims will keep your planter from touching the ground and allowing ice to freeze/thaw cracking or decaying the bottoms.

3. A plastic pot with holes punctured in it helps create great drainage.

4. Pea gravel acts as a filter and adds weight to the planters.

5. Sand prevents the soil's nutrients from running out the bottom of the pot while adding a porous drainage to the plant mix.

6. Plant mix, which is a light and fluffy mixture of peat, styrofoam, hummus, manure, topsoil, sand, and fertilizer is the best mix for plant annuals

The three essential factors to a great Planter: 

Take a look at these two quick drawings. Most of us have seen pottery like this for sale, and we may even own similar pots. Now we will learn about the thriller, the filler and the spiller.

1. The thriller is usually a tall showy grass or a grouping of pussy willow in spring. It could also be a tall metal trellis for a climbing vine.

2. The filler is where the “pack a punch” flower should be used. Most of your annuals can be fillers. Geraniums, pansies, hydrangeas and coleus are great options.

3. The spiller is usually the most difficult to find. A few plants trail greatly, but the most common are sweet potato vine, Boston ivy or creeping Jenny. 

If setting up a planter yourself seems like too much hassle, our D.A. Alexander Team would be happy to keep your planters looking great all year long!

Check out these 3 varieties.

Wave:The original spreading petunia reaches a height of 5-7”. The spreading habit creates a ground hugging layer of color spreading 3-4'. Popular colors include Misty Lilac and Classic Purple. 

Supertunia®: This Proven Winners variety has a mounding / trailing habit allowing this plant to function as both the filler and spiller in your containers.  Supertunia® is attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds, requires no deadheading and should be fertilized often for best summer performance. Extraordinary color availability includes Bordeaux, Limoncello, and Pretty Much Picasso. 

Million Bells®: Although not technically a petunia these easy petunia look-alikes by Proven Winners create a profusion of cascading flowers all season.  At 3-8” in height Million Bells® are a fantastic trailing annual for containers, hanging baskets and window boxes. Color options include Trailing Pink, Terra Cotta and Crackling Fire.  

1. Health Benefits

2. Environmental Benefits

3. Financial Benefits

Yes, financial benefits!  Most people are familiar with the first two but the later you won't hear discussed as often.  We will break down the main points of each with some surprising statistics.

THE FINANCIAL BENEFITS

The most tangible bang from your ‘bark' comes from energy savings.  Here are the statistics.

- “Trees properly placed around buildings can reduce air conditioning needs by 30 percent and can save 20-50 percent in energy used for heating.” – USDA Forest Service

- “If you plant a tree today on the west side of your home, in 5 years your energy bills should be 3% less.  In 15 years, the savings will be nearly 12%.” – Dr. E. Greg McPherson, Center for Urban Forest Research

Trees are responsible for increased property values.

- “Landscaping, especially with trees, can increase property values as much as 20 percent.”  – Management Information Services/ICMA

- “In one study, 83% of realtors believe that mature trees have a ‘strong or moderate impact' on the salability of homes listed for under $150,000; on homes over $250,000, this perception increases to 98%.” – Arbor National Mortgage & American Forests

- “Trees can be a stimulus to economic development, attracting new business and tourism.  Commercial retail areas are more attractive to shoppers, apartments rent more quickly, tenants stay longer and space in a wooded setting is more valuable to sell or rent.”  - The Arbor Day Foundation

HEALTH BENEFITS

There is no denying trees are pretty to look at.  They flower, change colors and block unsightly views.

- “In laboratory research, visual exposure to settings with trees has produced significant recovery from stress within five minutes, as indicated by changes in blood pressure and muscle tension.”  -Dr. Roger S. Ulrich, Texas A&M University

They also produce oxygen.  How much exactly?

- “On average, one tree produces nearly 260 pounds of oxygen each year.  Two mature trees can provide enough oxygen for a family of four.” – Environment Canada, Canada's National Environment Agency

ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS

Trees create habitats for wildlife, reduce soil erosion and prevent runoff from entering storm sewers amongst other things.

There are plenty of statistics to support these benefits but, by now I'm sure you've had your fill of facts for the day.  So, just take our word on this one!

It's easy to take for granted both trees and the many benefits they provide.  Our communities wouldn't be the same without them!

1. READ THE LABEL. Pre-emergent herbicides are chemicals. It is the law to read the label and follow the instructions. The label will tell you what weeds and grasses the pre-emergent is effective against, how much to apply and if the product needs to be watered after the application to be effective. 

2. Avoid planting new grass seed. Pre-emergent herbicides can prevent the seeds from germinating. 

3. Don't assume the pre-emergent you use on your turf can be used in your landscape beds. Read the label. You could cause serious damage to your landscape by misusing a pre-emergent product.

4. A pre-emergent is NOT effective once the weeds are showing. The active chemicals in the product must be in place prior to the weed starting to germinate. 

5. The soil or mulch must remain undisturbed in order to maintain the pre-emergent chemical barrier. Disruptions and holes made in a pre-emergent barrier create places for weeds to survive and drive you crazy.

6. Some pre-emergent products may cause staining on concrete, pavers, stone and other hard surfaces. There are non-staining formulas available.

Fall and winter weather can be harsh on your landscape. Follow our three P's of fall plant care to ensure your landscape will remain healthy throughout the cold months!

PRUNE

As a general guideline, prune most perennials down to 1” above ground and shrubs can be pruned back by one-third. Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as Viburnum, Lilac or Witch Hazel. Spring-flowering shrubs produce their buds in fall, so pruning these before winter may prevent spring blooms from forming.  Ornamental grasses can be pruned in either the fall or spring depending on your preference. 

PROTECT

Protect your evergreens by applying an anti-desiccant, commonly referred to by the brand name Wilt-Pruf. Anti-desiccants are sprays that provide a protective coating to evergreen foliage to help retain moisture and prevent evergreens from drying out.  Burlap is also a defensive barrier, keeping plants protected from heavy snows that can crush and strong winds that can cause windburn. Some broadleaf evergreens such as boxwood are particularly susceptible to winter windburn.

PROVIDE

Provide additional benefit for your plants by supplying a fall fertilizer. Fall fertilizer helps builds a nutrient reserve your plants can access throughout the winter. Your plants will have stronger, more robust roots in the spring, leading to large blooms early in the coming year. 

Soil is essential to plant health and growth.  People are accustomed to buying soil for their annual pots and gardens. The same consideration should also be given to the soil used in the landscape.

Here are three reasons why proper soil installation is important:

1. Proper soil installation provides a better environment for roots and plant growth.

Improvement of soil structure, water holding capacity and availability of nutrients are important for plants to grow. The better the soil texture, the better root growth.

2. Plants will grow more uniformly.

Proper soil installation allows for equal nutrients to be provided to you landscape plants creating a more uniform growth habit.

3. Soil amendments help achieve healthier color display.

Good drainage, adequate nutrients and available water will allow for annuals, perennials and other flowering plants to become more vibrant in color. Southeastern Michigan has a range of native soils that are not often ideal for non-native plants. Amending native soils will help achieve the drainage, nutrient and water retention for an ideal environment. 

Landscape using proper soil - at the time of installation.

Same landscape two years later, showing abundant growth and vibrance in plant color.

We are starting to see longer days of sunshine and before we know it, spring bulbs will start to emerge from the previously frozen ground while buds take over the once bare trees. Keeping your landscape healthy and looking its best requires care not only spring through fall. Pruning plants during winter months is an essential element to this goal. Inside every plant is a work of art waiting to bloom!

6 Reasons to Winter Prune

1. Branch structures of plants can be seen more easily when the leaves aren't in the way. This allows easier identification of crossing stems, dead branches, and stems growing in awkward directions all of which contribute to clumsy looking plants. 

2. The chance of transmitting diseases reduces in the winter since most bacteria is dormant at this time. 

3. Cuts caused by pruning heal faster during the winter. Your plants have more stored energy to direct to healing the wound. 

4. Old and overgrown shrubs can be rejuvenated by pruning to 6-12” above ground, allowing new growth to generate from the base of the plant.

5. Winter pruning reduces the amount of buds on the plants, a good thing, allowing the remaining buds to grow more vigorously in the spring.

6. The risk of injury to other plants is lessened as annual and perennial plant types have not yet emerged.

Fall In Love with Fall Planters

The temperatures are dropping and while we may be getting fewer hours of sunlight, that's no reason to keep your landscape from being anything but bright and beautiful!

Planters are an easy way to add a pop of color to your yard this fall. 

Try mixing an array of fall-inspired colors such as deep yellows, rust reds and even bits of pink and purple. Pansies are a great choice for pink and purple hues, while hardy mums come in a large assortment of colors and are one of fall's favorite flowers. Foliage plants such as ornamental kale are a great addition; with its frilly leaves, colorful centers, and excellent tolerance for cool temperatures, ornamental kale is easy to combine with other fall favorites, making it a prime planter addition.

General care for your planters this fall includes making sure they receive plenty of sunlight, checking soil daily for moisture content, and trimming dead or damaged foliage to help keep the plants healthy. 

Core aeration and why you need it.

It's been a scorcher! With record-breaking temperatures this summer and little rainfall, your lawn may be a bit parched, possibly suffering from drought stress and/or insect damage. Prepare it for next spring now by completing fall core aeration.

What is core aeration?

Simply put, core aeration is the process of mechanically removing small ½ to ¾-inch size plugs of soil, typically 1-6 inches deep from your lawn by using a mechanical drum machine with individual tines.

Why is it necessary?

Core aeration will increase water, nutrient and oxygen movement into the soil. All three elements are necessary for maintaining a strong, healthy root system.

How often should I aerate?

Generally, home lawns benefit from annual core aeration. Different soil types can require more frequent aeration.

When should I aerate my lawn?

If you are only aerating once a year, the best time for cool-season lawns is September to October. This is when lawns are coming out of summer dormancy and beginning a period of vigorous growth. Lawns will recover quickly from aeration at this time and competition from weeds is also minimal.

What happens after my lawn is aerated?

Once your lawn has been aerated, you will notice small plugs of soil throughout the grass. These plugs will break down naturally over time in the next few weeks and roots will gradually fill the holes where the plugs of soil were removed.  This is a sign that your lawn is receiving the additional oxygen, moisture and nutrients it craved.

Burlap Plant Protection 

Every neighborhood has one or maybe more than one.  You know, the home where the hedges are yellow instead of green.  To avoid becoming “that home”, protect your plants during winter with burlap.

Winter has many weather hazards such as snow, ice, cold temperatures and wind.  Here are three ways burlap helps protect your investment.

1.    Prevent “Winter Burn”.  During winter months, evergreen plants are unable to replenish their moisture due to the frozen ground.  Water is lost from leaves/needles through a process called transpiration (go ahead and use that word at your next social outing). Transpiration occurs year-round but can be problematic during winter and can cause plants to dehydrate.  Burlap helps to prevent excess transpiration and insulates against drying winds.

2.    Protect against salt damage.  Burlap creates a barrier to help protect against salt spray damage from road and sidewalk salt.  Salt spray can cause damage to foliage and stems.

3.    Allow plants to breathe.  Burlap provides protection for your plants while still allowing air to circulate and heat from the sun to escape. Other materials for plant protection don't have this ability and can end up causing more damage.

 
Thinking of your plants during the winter months will protect your landscape investment, will help plants to continue to thrive for many seasons to come, and will prevent you from becoming “that home”.

After the heat of the summer, when your perennials begin to look weathered and exhausted — or they're just falling over — it's time to grab your garden gloves and a spade to divide and solve the overcrowding problem.

Most perennials should be divided at some point. Often, your perennials need to be divided every two to three years. Otherwise, your blooms will be competing for nutrients and water and plants can outgrow their welcome. Many hardy perennials don't seem to skip a blooming beat once settled in a new location. Just fertilize regularly and add mulch when needed.

How do you know when to divide your blooms? Use this rule of thumb: If your perennials flower in spring and summer, fall is considered the ideal time to divide them. 

FOUR PERENNIALS TO DIVIDE IN THE FALL:

Sedum “Autumn Joy”: When there are so many blooms they are falling over it's time to divide. Once blooming is complete cut sedum to 6” above ground prior to dividing.  This allows for the plants to be more easily handled.  

Hosta: Divide Hosta after plentiful rain or a thorough watering the evening before so soil better adheres to the roots. September is a good month for most climates. Divide when Hosta look overcrowded in the space where planted.

Daylily: The best time to divide is when the clumps of stems provide fewer blooms throughout the season. Divide in late summer to early fall after the last flowering of the season. 

Siberian Iris: When the middle clumps stop producing blooms and the irises spread way beyond their boundaries, it's time to divide. Divide after the last bloom of the season.

There's nothing wrong with digging up these free perennials. Relocate the divided plant to a new spot or add them to a container in your garden. Dividing your plants is much easier than it seems and doesn't take much time. Who knew your landscape could produce so many more valuable plantings! 

In cooler regions such as Michigan, dig up the bulbs from plants such as Dahlias to store for the next season. Put peat moss in a ventilated box or bag, add the bulbs and move them to a dry place for safekeeping until you can plant them again.  

Next spring you'll be rewarded with new, more vigorous plants to share or add to your garden!

Create a beautiful planter in your garden!

Decorative planter pots are a great way to add colorful interest and height to your landscape.  Many different planter styles are readily available at nursery centers, home and specialty stores. You may already have some in your own garage! The following varieties of planter pots are most common:

Ceramic or terra-cotta:

The fun part... planting the flowers!  Don't be shy, just dive right in!  When picking your plants, choose plants that have close to the same lighting needs (i.e.: full sun or partial shade).  Pick plants you enjoy and don't worry about trying to match.  They're flowers... they match everything!  Most planters contain a tall plant in the middle for height with several shorter or trailing varieties surrounding.  These are your planters so do what you like. Watering is also an important factor in keeping your plants healthy.  Once a day, set aside some time to water your planters and you'll be on your way to growing beautiful arrangements!

The right plant for the right place.

As with many things, it pays to plan ahead when designing your landscape.  Like you and I, plants have requirements in order to thrive.  Healthy plants will resist disease, require less water, and add to the value of your home.  When deciding on plant varieties it is important to keep a couple things in mind to give those plants what they need to thrive in your yard. 

What type of soil do you have?  Is your soil clay, sand, or something in-between?  Complete clay is hard, compacts easily and will retain water near the roots which can lead to drowning of the plant.  Sand drains easily causing water to pass through too quickly not allowing the plant to absorb what they need.  A happy medium can be achieved by amending the soil with a plant mix to give it a good balance. 

Sun exposure is important. Each plant has sun requirements.  A plant requiring full sun will not perform in a shade environment. 

Additionally, large trees, other buildings, wind, and sunlight patterns play roles in plant survival. For example a home which faces north will not receive direct sunlight in the front yard.  Shade tolerant plants should be used.  Japanese Maple trees shouldn't be planted in the direct path of winter winds.  Information on the specific plant requirements can be found on the plant tag.  Plant tags contain plant names, soil requirements, sun requirements, and mature plant size.  Some garden centers and growers provide plant tag information online as well.  

Armed with all of your new knowledge of soil type and sun exposure it is time to venture off to the garden center or nursery. Of course if you have questions ask a garden center associate or your landscaper.  Have fun, get outside and enjoy some complimentary Vitamin D!

Poison Ivy

The saying goes “if it has three let it be” which I'm not really sure if it's a saying or just something my mother told us kids to scare the hell out of us and prevent us from touching any plant with three leaves!  Either way the saying refers to Poison Ivy identification.

We have all heard about Poison Ivy but do we all really know how to identify it?  After many years in the landscape industry I can say with certainty that most people can't.  Reactions to the oils in this plant vary from no reaction at all to my need for a steroid prescription.  Due to my extreme reaction I have not only become comfortable dressing like an idiot in pants, long sleeves, rubber boots and gloves whenever needing to remove the plant no matter the temperature, but have also educated myself on its identification.

Poison Ivy can take the form of a small plant, shrub, small vine, or large vine that bears fruit and can blend in with many other common plants.   My mother's saying refers to the fact that the leaves on Poison Ivy grow in groups of three.  Additionally these leaves are irregular in shape, often times with one side of the leaf being rounded with the opposite side being a bit jagged almost resembling a mitten.  In the fall the leaves turn a vibrant red color and a really mature plant will produce green or cream colored berries.   Poison Ivy is commonly mistaken as a Virginia Creeper or Raspberry plant. 

Now that you are an expert at Poison Ivy identification what do you do when you find some in your yard?  I find the best way to control Poison Ivy is to treat it with nonselective herbicide several times until it dries up and then dig up and dispose of the plant.  Be sure to follow the label instructions whenever using chemical products. 

If you only have your heart set on being an expert identifier and not an expert remover you can always contact a landscape contractor to help you out!