1. Don’t panic

Michigan is a mushroom hot spot! Over 2,500 species of mushrooms have been identified throughout the state. Mushrooms are a sign of healthy soil and that your property is well irrigated! Fungal spores tend to spread in healthy soil, as the grass has established a healthy root system. Too much moisture may increase the likelihood of mushroom clusters, especially in shady areas of your property.

2. How to remove them

The most efficient way of getting rid of mushrooms is to manually pull them out of the ground, including the base. This method provides the least amount of damage to your grass. Using a chemical weed killer won’t stop the fungal spores from spreading beneath the soil and may potentially harm the grass or surrounding plants. Mushrooms love moisture! So be careful not to overwater your lawn and ensure proper drainage is installed throughout your property.

3. Long-term prevention

Proper drainage of the soil can be accomplished through fall Core Aeration services. Combine that with a Healthy Lawn Care Fertilization Program- this will prevent mushroom growth next growing season. If you have an irrigation system, make sure the zones evenly cover your property and the timer is working properly. Lastly, it’s never a bad idea to regularly remove any dead or organic material from your property like tree branches, as this may harbor a shady environment for unwanted mushrooms. 

Call the pros at D.A. Alexander for more information on Lawn Aeration Services at (734) 427-0030.

1. Make sure it’s crabgrass.

A lawncare professional can help identify crabgrass. It’s important to know exactly what type of weeds are overtaking your lawn. Typically, crabgrass hangs lower than normal grass to the point where a standard mower is unable to trim it during a regular lawn cutting. The crabgrass stalks sprawl horizontally and growth can get fairly long.

2. Break the cycle in early spring.

Pre-emergent herbicide should be applied in early spring before the crabgrass germinates and spreads to other parts of the yard. If the application timing is right, you will have prevented the weeds from taking over next year as well. It’s important to select a herbicide that is safe for kids, pets and adults.

3. Kill the weeds, not your grass.

If the crabgrass is still hanging around by late summer, a post-emergent herbicide should be applied. A fertilization technician can recommend which type of herbicide has the power to selectively kill only the crabgrass weeds and not your grass. It’s important to select herbicides that are meant to kill the plant itself- not your grass or other surrounding landscape plants.

Keep your neighbor in mind! If a nearby yard is taken over by crabgrass, there’s a chance the seeds could spread to your property. If this is the case, a fertilizer technician can implement techniques to help minimize the spread and appearance of weeds.

At D.A. Alexander & Company, we’d be happy to discuss a plan to help you achieve barefoot grass! Contact us at 734-427-0030 for more information.

Photo by Kevin Frank | Michigan State University Extension

Fall Cleanup

October is the best time to invest in fall cleanup services and thoroughly rid your landscape of leaves, debris and dead plants. In addition to raking leaves and disposing of the excess organic material in your yard, we also provide:

Removal of Annual Plants/Seasonal plantings- After the first frost, it's time to remove the annual plants that are no longer in bloom. This will make room for new annuals come springtime.

Trim perennials- perennials such as black-eyed susans, daisies and hostas can be cut back in preparation for next year. Most of the time, this means trimming them down to just a few inches above the ground. In spring, new green stems will protrude through the old foliage and the dead stems eventually can be cut back. 

Prepping for Winter

In the winter, trees and shrubs take the brunt of cold weather, frost, ice and heavy snow. It's also important to winterize your irrigation system before freezing temperatures hit.

Burlap bushes (boxwoods)- Wrapping your bushes in burlap consolidates heat and protects the root system from extreme frostbite. The same procedure can be done with delicate trees or large pines/spruce trees that may need protection.

Anti-wilt spray- Shrubs like boxwoods, evergreens or arborvitae may benefit from an anti-wilt spray. Safe for families and pets, this spray treatment helps the shrubs retain moisture in their leaves throughout the winter season, even when the temperature is below freezing. Preventing the “winter burn” or frostbite will reduce your fertilization costs.

Winterize your Irrigation System- Last but not least, always turn off your irrigation system in late fall/early winter. The professionals at D.A. Alexander & Company, Inc. utilize a winterization checklist, saving you money on costly repairs and unexpected damages next season. 

1.  Don't stop weeding-

Chances are, the majority of plants in your garden are done growing this year. Now is the time to remove any invasive weeds and clean up around the perennials that will go dormant this winter. Mulch is a great way to prevent lingering weeds from coming back, while also insulating the soil. Here in Michigan, mulch can be a lifesaver from the unexpected drops in temperature and frost. While you're at it, rake over your entire garden to ensure plants are free of disease. Check for signs of discoloration and get rid of any dead leaves in the process.

2.  Take out any annual plants-

Your annuals lived the good life and are slowly starting phase their way out of your landscape. And since they won't be returning next year, why not make some room for next year's annuals? In the extra space, try adding mulch or even planters with seasonal mums that can withstand the cold.

3.  Bring your sensitive plants inside-

This includes any summertime staples like ferns or succulents that require the warmer temperatures and sunshine to thrive. While they might look great by the pool, it's likely they won't last very long outside, especially after the first frost.

4.  Clear the leaves-

Perhaps the most daunting task of the fall season, clearing away leaves before cutting your lawn is both healthy for the grass and your lawn mower. If the fall tailgating season has your weekends tied up, you can always rely on the professionals at D.A. Alexander & Company to take care of the grass (and leaves) in your yard.

5.  Invest in Core Aeration-

By the end of the summer season, your soil is very compacted. Core aeration is a process where plugs of soil are pulled from the lawn in order to break up compacted soil and thatch build-up. Fall is the perfect time to aerate the soil so it is in peak condition next spring.

For more information on lawn services, core aeration, and prepping your landscape this season, contact D.A. Alexander & Company at 734-427-0030.

The Truth About Weed Barrier

Let's talk about installing mulch on top of a weed barrier. What happens to mulch every year? It eventually loses its color and breaks down into soil. After years of replenishing mulch, you create a beautiful soil layer on top of your weed barrier. The good news is you have created a great mulch base, high in organic matter. The bad news is, the decomposition of the mulch on top of the weed barrier has just created an optimal and excellent opportunity for weeds to grow. 

When the weeds start popping up and it's time to pull them, it is more difficult to pull them because the roots are often embedded in the fabric. Therefore, when you do pull them, the entire root is not removed, and the weeds grow back in quickly. So, while the weed barrier fabric seems like a good idea for weed prevention in your beds, it actually leads to more weeds.

A Great Alternative to Weed Barrier

Using a preemergent herbicide when you spread your fresh mulch is a great way to avoid weeds. As the season goes on, maintain the areas by hand pulling the visible weeds, or using a non-selective herbicide, or do a combination of both. This should be sufficient when trying to combat any weed problem. 

The Best Use for Weed Barrier

When it comes to decorative rock installation, a weed barrier is a necessity and it will give you much better results in controlling weeds. Obviously, rock is not going to break down like mulch, but be aware that rock can be more costly than mulch. When installing rock, I recommend a geo-textile fabric. This type of fabric is a stronger, more durable landscape fabric than typical weed barrier. If you are having rock installed by a contractor, make sure to request geo-textile fabric to give you the best results. 

1. READ THE LABEL. Pre-emergent herbicides are chemicals. It is the law to read the label and follow the instructions. The label will tell you what weeds and grasses the pre-emergent is effective against, how much to apply and if the product needs to be watered after the application to be effective. 

2. Avoid planting new grass seed. Pre-emergent herbicides can prevent the seeds from germinating. 

3. Don't assume the pre-emergent you use on your turf can be used in your landscape beds. Read the label. You could cause serious damage to your landscape by misusing a pre-emergent product.

4. A pre-emergent is NOT effective once the weeds are showing. The active chemicals in the product must be in place prior to the weed starting to germinate. 

5. The soil or mulch must remain undisturbed in order to maintain the pre-emergent chemical barrier. Disruptions and holes made in a pre-emergent barrier create places for weeds to survive and drive you crazy.

6. Some pre-emergent products may cause staining on concrete, pavers, stone and other hard surfaces. There are non-staining formulas available.

Now that summer's over, it's time to prepare your lawn for fall! Here are some tips to keep your lawn healthy as it begins to get colder.

Aerate

Core Aeration allows nutrients and water to penetrate compacted soil. Aerating combined with fertilization in the Fall establishes a healthy foundation for next Springs' lawn growth. Below are some other reasons why aeration is important:

•Core Aeration allows for gas exchange, and promotes drainage. 

•Aerated lawns are stronger and more able to endure harsh conditions such as excess heat and droughts. 

•Core Aeration helps to relieve compaction all over your lawn, and is especially beneficial for high traffic areas. 

Select a slow-release, NO phosphorus Fertilizer

A hot summer can deplete your lawn's nutrients. Replenishing your lawn with nitrogen and potassium in the fall helps to create a nutrient base, promoting a healthy lawn early in the warmer seasons. 

•Nitrogen promotes protein growth.  

•Be sure to select a NO phosphorus fertilizer. Public Act 299 of 2010 prohibits the use of phosphorus fertilizers on residential or commercial lawns, beginning January 1, 2012. 

•Potassium helps prevent wilting and assists in additional protein growth. 

Slow-release fertilizers release Nitrogen over time, providing nutrients for a longer period of time and limiting the amount of salt running off into ground water.  

Don't cut too low

Not only can cutting too low lead to burnt grass, but it can also impact the way your grass grows. Cutting grass blades to 3” or more promotes healthy root growth. Leaving the clippings on the lawn recycles nitrogen back into the soil.

Be mindful

Excess fertilizer can be harmful to water supply. Sweep loose fertilizer into the lawn and keep fertilizer 20 feet away from storm drains. 

It's never too early to begin preparing! Following these tips now should help ensure your grass will come back healthy and beautiful in the Spring!

We are starting to see longer days of sunshine and before we know it, spring bulbs will start to emerge from the previously frozen ground while buds take over the once bare trees. Keeping your landscape healthy and looking its best requires care not only spring through fall. Pruning plants during winter months is an essential element to this goal. Inside every plant is a work of art waiting to bloom!

6 Reasons to Winter Prune

1. Branch structures of plants can be seen more easily when the leaves aren't in the way. This allows easier identification of crossing stems, dead branches, and stems growing in awkward directions all of which contribute to clumsy looking plants. 

2. The chance of transmitting diseases reduces in the winter since most bacteria is dormant at this time. 

3. Cuts caused by pruning heal faster during the winter. Your plants have more stored energy to direct to healing the wound. 

4. Old and overgrown shrubs can be rejuvenated by pruning to 6-12” above ground, allowing new growth to generate from the base of the plant.

5. Winter pruning reduces the amount of buds on the plants, a good thing, allowing the remaining buds to grow more vigorously in the spring.

6. The risk of injury to other plants is lessened as annual and perennial plant types have not yet emerged.

Burlap Plant Protection 

Every neighborhood has one or maybe more than one.  You know, the home where the hedges are yellow instead of green.  To avoid becoming “that home”, protect your plants during winter with burlap.

Winter has many weather hazards such as snow, ice, cold temperatures and wind.  Here are three ways burlap helps protect your investment.

1.    Prevent “Winter Burn”.  During winter months, evergreen plants are unable to replenish their moisture due to the frozen ground.  Water is lost from leaves/needles through a process called transpiration (go ahead and use that word at your next social outing). Transpiration occurs year-round but can be problematic during winter and can cause plants to dehydrate.  Burlap helps to prevent excess transpiration and insulates against drying winds.

2.    Protect against salt damage.  Burlap creates a barrier to help protect against salt spray damage from road and sidewalk salt.  Salt spray can cause damage to foliage and stems.

3.    Allow plants to breathe.  Burlap provides protection for your plants while still allowing air to circulate and heat from the sun to escape. Other materials for plant protection don't have this ability and can end up causing more damage.

 
Thinking of your plants during the winter months will protect your landscape investment, will help plants to continue to thrive for many seasons to come, and will prevent you from becoming “that home”.

After the heat of the summer, when your perennials begin to look weathered and exhausted — or they're just falling over — it's time to grab your garden gloves and a spade to divide and solve the overcrowding problem.

Most perennials should be divided at some point. Often, your perennials need to be divided every two to three years. Otherwise, your blooms will be competing for nutrients and water and plants can outgrow their welcome. Many hardy perennials don't seem to skip a blooming beat once settled in a new location. Just fertilize regularly and add mulch when needed.

How do you know when to divide your blooms? Use this rule of thumb: If your perennials flower in spring and summer, fall is considered the ideal time to divide them. 

FOUR PERENNIALS TO DIVIDE IN THE FALL:

Sedum “Autumn Joy”: When there are so many blooms they are falling over it's time to divide. Once blooming is complete cut sedum to 6” above ground prior to dividing.  This allows for the plants to be more easily handled.  

Hosta: Divide Hosta after plentiful rain or a thorough watering the evening before so soil better adheres to the roots. September is a good month for most climates. Divide when Hosta look overcrowded in the space where planted.

Daylily: The best time to divide is when the clumps of stems provide fewer blooms throughout the season. Divide in late summer to early fall after the last flowering of the season. 

Siberian Iris: When the middle clumps stop producing blooms and the irises spread way beyond their boundaries, it's time to divide. Divide after the last bloom of the season.

There's nothing wrong with digging up these free perennials. Relocate the divided plant to a new spot or add them to a container in your garden. Dividing your plants is much easier than it seems and doesn't take much time. Who knew your landscape could produce so many more valuable plantings! 

In cooler regions such as Michigan, dig up the bulbs from plants such as Dahlias to store for the next season. Put peat moss in a ventilated box or bag, add the bulbs and move them to a dry place for safekeeping until you can plant them again.  

Next spring you'll be rewarded with new, more vigorous plants to share or add to your garden!

Poison Ivy

The saying goes “if it has three let it be” which I'm not really sure if it's a saying or just something my mother told us kids to scare the hell out of us and prevent us from touching any plant with three leaves!  Either way the saying refers to Poison Ivy identification.

We have all heard about Poison Ivy but do we all really know how to identify it?  After many years in the landscape industry I can say with certainty that most people can't.  Reactions to the oils in this plant vary from no reaction at all to my need for a steroid prescription.  Due to my extreme reaction I have not only become comfortable dressing like an idiot in pants, long sleeves, rubber boots and gloves whenever needing to remove the plant no matter the temperature, but have also educated myself on its identification.

Poison Ivy can take the form of a small plant, shrub, small vine, or large vine that bears fruit and can blend in with many other common plants.   My mother's saying refers to the fact that the leaves on Poison Ivy grow in groups of three.  Additionally these leaves are irregular in shape, often times with one side of the leaf being rounded with the opposite side being a bit jagged almost resembling a mitten.  In the fall the leaves turn a vibrant red color and a really mature plant will produce green or cream colored berries.   Poison Ivy is commonly mistaken as a Virginia Creeper or Raspberry plant. 

Now that you are an expert at Poison Ivy identification what do you do when you find some in your yard?  I find the best way to control Poison Ivy is to treat it with nonselective herbicide several times until it dries up and then dig up and dispose of the plant.  Be sure to follow the label instructions whenever using chemical products. 

If you only have your heart set on being an expert identifier and not an expert remover you can always contact a landscape contractor to help you out!