1. Make sure it’s crabgrass.

A lawncare professional can help identify crabgrass. It’s important to know exactly what type of weeds are overtaking your lawn. Typically, crabgrass hangs lower than normal grass to the point where a standard mower is unable to trim it during a regular lawn cutting. The crabgrass stalks sprawl horizontally and growth can get fairly long.

2. Break the cycle in early spring.

Pre-emergent herbicide should be applied in early spring before the crabgrass germinates and spreads to other parts of the yard. If the application timing is right, you will have prevented the weeds from taking over next year as well. It’s important to select a herbicide that is safe for kids, pets and adults.

3. Kill the weeds, not your grass.

If the crabgrass is still hanging around by late summer, a post-emergent herbicide should be applied. A fertilization technician can recommend which type of herbicide has the power to selectively kill only the crabgrass weeds and not your grass. It’s important to select herbicides that are meant to kill the plant itself- not your grass or other surrounding landscape plants.

Keep your neighbor in mind! If a nearby yard is taken over by crabgrass, there’s a chance the seeds could spread to your property. If this is the case, a fertilizer technician can implement techniques to help minimize the spread and appearance of weeds.

At D.A. Alexander & Company, we’d be happy to discuss a plan to help you achieve barefoot grass! Contact us at 734-427-0030 for more information.

Photo by Kevin Frank | Michigan State University Extension

1. READ THE LABEL. Pre-emergent herbicides are chemicals. It is the law to read the label and follow the instructions. The label will tell you what weeds and grasses the pre-emergent is effective against, how much to apply and if the product needs to be watered after the application to be effective. 

2. Avoid planting new grass seed. Pre-emergent herbicides can prevent the seeds from germinating. 

3. Don't assume the pre-emergent you use on your turf can be used in your landscape beds. Read the label. You could cause serious damage to your landscape by misusing a pre-emergent product.

4. A pre-emergent is NOT effective once the weeds are showing. The active chemicals in the product must be in place prior to the weed starting to germinate. 

5. The soil or mulch must remain undisturbed in order to maintain the pre-emergent chemical barrier. Disruptions and holes made in a pre-emergent barrier create places for weeds to survive and drive you crazy.

6. Some pre-emergent products may cause staining on concrete, pavers, stone and other hard surfaces. There are non-staining formulas available.

Now that summer's over, it's time to prepare your lawn for fall! Here are some tips to keep your lawn healthy as it begins to get colder.

Aerate

Core Aeration allows nutrients and water to penetrate compacted soil. Aerating combined with fertilization in the Fall establishes a healthy foundation for next Springs' lawn growth. Below are some other reasons why aeration is important:

•Core Aeration allows for gas exchange, and promotes drainage. 

•Aerated lawns are stronger and more able to endure harsh conditions such as excess heat and droughts. 

•Core Aeration helps to relieve compaction all over your lawn, and is especially beneficial for high traffic areas. 

Select a slow-release, NO phosphorus Fertilizer

A hot summer can deplete your lawn's nutrients. Replenishing your lawn with nitrogen and potassium in the fall helps to create a nutrient base, promoting a healthy lawn early in the warmer seasons. 

•Nitrogen promotes protein growth.  

•Be sure to select a NO phosphorus fertilizer. Public Act 299 of 2010 prohibits the use of phosphorus fertilizers on residential or commercial lawns, beginning January 1, 2012. 

•Potassium helps prevent wilting and assists in additional protein growth. 

Slow-release fertilizers release Nitrogen over time, providing nutrients for a longer period of time and limiting the amount of salt running off into ground water.  

Don't cut too low

Not only can cutting too low lead to burnt grass, but it can also impact the way your grass grows. Cutting grass blades to 3” or more promotes healthy root growth. Leaving the clippings on the lawn recycles nitrogen back into the soil.

Be mindful

Excess fertilizer can be harmful to water supply. Sweep loose fertilizer into the lawn and keep fertilizer 20 feet away from storm drains. 

It's never too early to begin preparing! Following these tips now should help ensure your grass will come back healthy and beautiful in the Spring!

Core aeration and why you need it.

It's been a scorcher! With record-breaking temperatures this summer and little rainfall, your lawn may be a bit parched, possibly suffering from drought stress and/or insect damage. Prepare it for next spring now by completing fall core aeration.

What is core aeration?

Simply put, core aeration is the process of mechanically removing small ½ to ¾-inch size plugs of soil, typically 1-6 inches deep from your lawn by using a mechanical drum machine with individual tines.

Why is it necessary?

Core aeration will increase water, nutrient and oxygen movement into the soil. All three elements are necessary for maintaining a strong, healthy root system.

How often should I aerate?

Generally, home lawns benefit from annual core aeration. Different soil types can require more frequent aeration.

When should I aerate my lawn?

If you are only aerating once a year, the best time for cool-season lawns is September to October. This is when lawns are coming out of summer dormancy and beginning a period of vigorous growth. Lawns will recover quickly from aeration at this time and competition from weeds is also minimal.

What happens after my lawn is aerated?

Once your lawn has been aerated, you will notice small plugs of soil throughout the grass. These plugs will break down naturally over time in the next few weeks and roots will gradually fill the holes where the plugs of soil were removed.  This is a sign that your lawn is receiving the additional oxygen, moisture and nutrients it craved.

Choosing your lawn fertilization program; are more applications really better?

Here are 3 considerations when picking your plan.

1.   More does not always equal better! There are two main types of nitrogen in fertilizer (the stuff that makes your lawn green) Fast Release Nitrogen and Slow Release Nitrogen. Fast Release lasts about 2-3 weeks requiring more applications than the alternative Slow Release option which lasts up to 6-8 weeks. Know which version is being applied to your lawn.

2.   Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a big industry word with two main principles. Focus on pest prevention and use pesticides only as needed. Again more doesn't always equal better. Don't pay for something you don't need! A good fertilization plan includes inspection and monitoring of pests with recommendations. The solution to your turf problem may be as simple as adjusting the cut height of your grass.   

3.   Liquid or granular? Each side has their proponents. We favor granular for its longer lasting results and ability to withstand runoff.

Fertilizers are not all equal. Know what is being applied to your lawn. Ask questions and expect answers.